Wood Selection Guide
How to Choose Firewood — WoodDrop's Guide
Density, moisture, coal bed, and use-case matching — the four things that determine whether a wood is right for your fire. Explained clearly so you can choose with confidence.
Why is moisture content the most important factor in choosing firewood?
Moisture content is the single most important variable in firewood quality — more than species, density, or price. Wood above 25% moisture is wet wood: it requires significant energy to drive off the water before combustion begins, resulting in low heat output, excessive smoke, and tar residue in flues and stovepipes.
Well-seasoned or kiln-dried wood at 10–15% moisture ignites more easily, burns more completely, produces more heat per kilogram, and leaves far less creosote. WoodDrop moisture-tests every batch before listing it. The moisture range shown on each product page is measured — not estimated.
How to spot wet wood: Freshly cut wood hisses and sizzles when on the fire, produces steam from the ends, and is noticeably heavier. It usually has visible checking (cracks in the end grain) only after drying. If WoodDrop's wood behaves like this, contact us — it should not.
How does wood density affect burn time and heat output?
Wood density — measured in kilograms per cubic metre (kg/m³) — determines how much energy is packed into each piece. Denser wood contains more energy per unit of volume, which means it burns for longer and releases more heat before burning out.
Mopane (1 150 kg/m³) and Kameeldoring (1 100 kg/m³) are the densest woods in the WoodDrop catalogue. A single piece burns for significantly longer than a comparably-sized piece of Vine (630 kg/m³). This is why Kameeldoring and Mopane are favoured for slow combustion stoves and long braais — fewer reloads, sustained heat.
The trade-off is that dense wood is harder to light. Mopane and Kameeldoring need a good firelighter and 20–30 minutes of open-air burn before they are fully established.
| Wood | Density | Burn time | Ignition difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mopane | 1 150 kg/m³ | 4–6 hr | High — needs firelighter + time |
| Kameeldoring | 1 100 kg/m³ | 4–5 hr | High — needs firelighter + time |
| Sekelbos | 970 kg/m³ | 3–4 hr | Medium |
| Blue Gum | 860 kg/m³ | 2–3 hr | Easy |
| Black Wattle | 800 kg/m³ | 2.5–3.5 hr | Easy |
| Rooikrans | 800 kg/m³ | 1.5–2.5 hr | Very easy |
| Vine / Wingerd | 630 kg/m³ | Fast | Very easy |
What is a coal bed and why does it matter for braai?
A coal bed is the layer of glowing, red-hot charcoal left after a fire has burned through its initial flame phase. For braai, the coal bed — not the flame — is what you actually cook over. Flame-cooking produces uneven heat, flare-ups, and a higher risk of burning the outside while leaving the inside raw.
Dense hardwoods like Kameeldoring and Sekelbos produce a deep, even coal bed that lasts for hours. Lighter woods like Rooikrans and Vine produce a hotter but shorter-lived coal bed — fine for a quick sear but not ideal for a long, slow braai.
Coal-bed quality is directly related to density: more energy per piece, more charcoal left at the end. This is the single most important metric when choosing braai wood.
How do I match wood to my specific fire type?
Different fire types have different requirements. Here is a straightforward use-case guide:
Open braai — long fire
Best: Kameeldoring or Sekelbos
Dense, long-lasting coal bed. Suitable for lamb, large cuts, 2+ hour cooking sessions.
Open braai — quick sear
Best: Rooikrans or Vine
Fast ignition, hot burn. Ideal for steaks, chops, or a weeknight braai where you want coals in 30 minutes.
Open fireplace
Best: Blue Gum or Black Wattle
Low smoke, clean burn, sustained heat. Both are ideal for living rooms and patio fireplaces.
Closed combustion stove
Best: Kameeldoring, Sekelbos, or Mopane
Dense hardwoods burn slowly with restricted air. Low moisture is critical — all WoodDrop wood qualifies.
Pizza oven
Best: Vine / Wingerd or Rooikrans
Fast, hot, and aromatic. Pizza ovens need a large volume of fast-burning wood to reach temperature quickly.
Starting any fire
Best: Braai Kindling + firelighter
Pine kindling lights in seconds with a firelighter and creates the bed of flame needed to catch larger hardwood.
What is the right way to start a fire with dense hardwood?
Dense hardwoods — Kameeldoring, Sekelbos, and Mopane — will not light reliably from paper alone. The correct sequence is:
- Place a paraffin or wax firelighter at the base of your wood stack.
- Stack kindling loosely over and around the firelighter, leaving air gaps.
- Place the hardwood logs over the kindling. Do not pack tightly — air needs to circulate.
- Light the firelighter. For a braai or open fire, leave the air fully open for at least 20–30 minutes.
- For closed combustion stoves, keep the air damper open until the fire is fully established (glowing coals visible), then restrict to your desired burn rate.
A common mistake is adding dense hardwood too early — before a proper kindling fire has established. This smothers the fire rather than feeding it.
How much firewood should I order?
A single Drop (≈ 15 kg) is a practical starting quantity — enough to try a wood type and stock a small fire or two to three braai sessions with a standard hardwood. A half bakkie (≈ 255 kg / 17 Drops) keeps a braai-active household going for a season. A full bakkie (≈ 510 kg / 34 Drops) is for households that braai multiple times per week or run a fireplace most winter evenings.
Mopane is sold subject to limited seasonal availability — order early if you want it for winter heating.